Gary E
29-04-2003, 12:06
Recently bought a WGP 2003 vert autococker and have been progressively upgrading the various bits over time.
I intend to give an account of what's been done, together with an opinion as to whether the upgrade has delivered a worthwhile improvement.
If you are interested in how to fit a supercharge valve and Rex Dialer kit, I will be writing a note shortly. Not very difficult but there are one or two pitfalls to be wary of.
On the subject of valves, has anyone noticed the design of the supercharge valve is almost identical to the standard item?
Cannot say I have noticed much difference in performance, neither, but changing this did yield one benefit - read on...
Whilst in pieces, I noticed the valve and lockring have a metal to metal contact. This cannot provide a good seal. Also, the grub screw in the base is an obvious point for gasses to escape.
One thing I did do was to fit a rubber washer between the lock ring and the valve itself. Also applied plumbers PTFE tape to the threads of the lock ring and the grub screw (the grub screw being that which prevents the valve from rotating - you need to have the trigger frame off to see it) Applied a light smear of grease to the hammer (esp the rear, where the cocking rod threads in) and to the sear within the trigger frame.
Bolted the whole lot back together and gas efficiency seems to have improved markedly. I put this down to the additional sealing rather than to the value itself. Cost of this additional sealing is no more than a few quid - got to be worth it.
Anyone else out there tried this?
Gary E
I intend to give an account of what's been done, together with an opinion as to whether the upgrade has delivered a worthwhile improvement.
If you are interested in how to fit a supercharge valve and Rex Dialer kit, I will be writing a note shortly. Not very difficult but there are one or two pitfalls to be wary of.
On the subject of valves, has anyone noticed the design of the supercharge valve is almost identical to the standard item?
Cannot say I have noticed much difference in performance, neither, but changing this did yield one benefit - read on...
Whilst in pieces, I noticed the valve and lockring have a metal to metal contact. This cannot provide a good seal. Also, the grub screw in the base is an obvious point for gasses to escape.
One thing I did do was to fit a rubber washer between the lock ring and the valve itself. Also applied plumbers PTFE tape to the threads of the lock ring and the grub screw (the grub screw being that which prevents the valve from rotating - you need to have the trigger frame off to see it) Applied a light smear of grease to the hammer (esp the rear, where the cocking rod threads in) and to the sear within the trigger frame.
Bolted the whole lot back together and gas efficiency seems to have improved markedly. I put this down to the additional sealing rather than to the value itself. Cost of this additional sealing is no more than a few quid - got to be worth it.
Anyone else out there tried this?
Gary E